If your goal is to see geisha in Kyoto, there are much better ways to do it than hovering around Gion and hoping to catch a quick photo.
You can still see geiko and maiko in Kyoto, but the useful question is not just where. It is how. Some options are free and public. Some are stage performances. Some are easier paid experiences. And a few are genuinely special private experiences if this is something you care about enough to spend on properly.
This guide goes from the easiest options to the most exclusive ones, then finishes with the main seasonal events worth knowing about.
Some links on YavaJapan are affiliate links. If you book or buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps support the site, and I only link to places, stays, and experiences I genuinely think are worth recommending.
Quick Answer
If you just want the short version:
Best free option: a respectful evening walk in Gion
Best accessible paid option:Gion Corner or another public stage show
If you want the simplest answer to “where can I see geisha in Kyoto?”, it is still Gion, especially in the late afternoon or evening.
That said, this is the least reliable option and the one tourists handle worst. You might see geiko or maiko walking to an appointment. You might also see none. And if you do see one, that does not turn the street into your personal photo shoot.
If you try this, treat it as a pleasant possibility, not a guaranteed activity.
2. Watch a Public Show
For most travelers, this is the easiest option I would actually recommend.
If what you want is to see geisha perform in a way that is public, simple, and respectful, then stage performances make much more sense than street-spotting. You know what you are getting, you are not intruding on anyone, and you can actually build your day around it.
This is the middle ground between public performances and the expensive private experiences.
These are still tourism products, but they are easier to book, much more accessible than a real private ochaya evening, and usually good enough for travelers who are simply curious and want one polished geisha-related moment on the trip.
If you want something easy and bookable without spending a fortune, this is probably the category you should start with.
Best High-end Geisha Experiences
If what you want is not just to see geisha but to have a more personal and memorable experience around geiko and maiko culture, then the normal OTA options are not the most interesting part of the market.
My Top Premium Recommendation: Fortune Garden Kyoto
Wabunka is a Japan-based website for international travelers who want private cultural experiences and stays that feel much more personal than standard tours. They work directly with respected hosts and venues across Japan, the experiences are private for your group only, and when needed they include an interpreter so the exchange still feels smooth and natural.
I have worked with Wabunka and featured them on YavaJapan several times already. If you have read the site before, you have probably seen me recommend them in other cultural-experience articles too.
This Fortune Garden experience is the most balanced premium geisha recommendation here because it is still luxurious and memorable, but it is not as intimidating or extreme in price as the most exclusive private ochaya experiences.
These are not for everyone. They are expensive, and they make the most sense for travelers who really care about this subject, are planning a special occasion, or want one standout cultural experience that feels far more personal than a standard geisha show.
If that is you, then yes, I do think these are in a completely different category from the easier paid options.
If you want a more detailed look at one of these formats, I also wrote a dedicated review of the ochaya dinner route here:
If you are visiting Kyoto at the right time of year, this is often the easiest and most culturally satisfying way to see geiko and maiko perform properly.
Best Seasonal Pick: Miyako Odori
If you are in Kyoto in April, Miyako Odori is the first performance I would check.
This is the most famous of Kyoto’s annual geisha-district dance performances. It is staged by the geiko and maiko of Gion Kobu, usually runs from April 1 to April 30, and is one of the easiest ways for normal visitors to see the real thing on stage without needing insider access.
If you are in Kyoto at that time, I would put it ahead of random Gion street-spotting without hesitation.
Other Seasonal Performances Worth Knowing
The other performances in this group follow the same basic idea: they are public seasonal stage shows tied to one of Kyoto’s geisha districts. They are one of the easiest respectful ways to see geiko and maiko perform if your trip does not line up with Miyako Odori.
Kitano Odori usually runs in late March to early April and is performed by the geiko and maiko of Kamishichiken, Kyoto’s oldest geisha district.
Kyo Odori usually takes place in early to mid-April and is the spring performance of Miyagawacho, another of Kyoto’s major hanamachi.
Kamogawa Odori runs from May 1 to May 24 and is staged by Pontocho, so it is a strong option if your trip falls after the April dance season.
Gion Odori usually runs from November 1 to November 10 and is the main fall performance to look for in Kyoto.
Miyako no Nigiwai usually happens in late June and is a rarer bonus because it brings performers from all five Kyoto geisha districts onto one stage.
If your timing lines up with one of these, I would prioritize that over random street-spotting.
Seasonal Street Sightings
There are also a few seasonal moments where you may see geiko and maiko more easily in public, especially:
Setsubun at Yasaka Shrine on February 2 and 3 is the easiest one to understand as a visitor because it includes public appearances, short dances, and a crowd that is already there to watch.
Gion Matsuri runs across July, especially around the main parade dates on July 17 and 24, but it is not a geisha event in itself. I would treat geiko and maiko appearances here as a possible bonus, not something to build your whole day around.
Hassaku in Gion happens on August 1 and is the most culturally interesting of the three, but also the one where respectful behavior matters most. It is a traditional day of formal visits in Gion, not a performance staged for an audience.
What Not to Do in Gion
Do not treat Gion like a geisha safari.
If you happen to see geiko or maiko walking between appointments, fine. But following them, crowding them, blocking their way, or trying to turn the whole district into a photo hunt is exactly the behavior that has created so many problems in Kyoto.
watch a public performance
book a proper paid experience
or keep your street sightings passive and brief
The Bottom Line
If you want the easiest respectful answer, go for a public show or seasonal dance performance.
If you want something more polished and bookable, choose one of the paid geisha experiences.
The best part of Miyajima happens after most people leave. When the last ferry sails back to the mainland, the island gets quiet. The shops close. The selfie sticks vanish. You can stand in front of the shrine and actually hear the water move. Staying overnight matters—and staying in the right ryokan makes the difference between a nice memory and something you’ll keep thinking about long after the trip ends. This article compares traditional ryokan in Miyajima, sorted by budget range.
Best for: Travelers who want a quiet, low-key stay with genuinely good food and warm, hands-on hospitality.
Price range adults: ¥15,000-¥30,000
Ryoso Kawaguchi is one of those places that doesn’t try to impress but ends up doing exactly that. It’s located just a few minutes’ walk from Itsukushima Shrine, but tucked off the main road, on a quiet residential side street. From the outside, it doesn’t look like much. But once you’re inside, it feels calm, organized, and surprisingly personal.
The ryokan is run by a couple who do everything themselves. There are only a handful of rooms, all in traditional Japanese style with tatami floors and futons. They’re clean, quiet, and basic in a good way. If you want to bathe, there’s a small private-use bath you can book at check-in. It’s not an onsen, but it’s well-kept and ideal if you’re traveling as a couple or want to avoid public baths.
What really stands out here is the food. Dinner is home-cooked kaiseki—not restaurant-style perfection, but meals that feel like they were made just for you. Several travelers have said this was the best meal of their entire trip to Japan. The menu changes with the seasons, but it usually includes sashimi, grilled fish, local vegetables, and a few dishes that are unique to the region. Breakfast is also excellent and just as carefully prepared.
The hosts don’t speak much English, but they know how to communicate. They’re used to foreign guests and are incredibly kind. Expect little touches: welcome tea when you arrive, explanations written out in English, help with your ferry schedule, and quiet attention throughout your stay.
There’s nothing flashy about this place, but it delivers exactly what a ryokan should—calm, care, and food that stays with you long after the trip is over.
Best for: Couples or solo travelers who want a friendly, home-style stay with excellent food and no fuss. Also a great option if you need halal or plant-based meals.
Price for two adults: ¥30,000
Yamaichi Bekkan is the kind of place people remember for its warmth. The ryokan has only four rooms that can accommodate up to two guests each, and it sits directly across from the Miyajima ferry terminal. That might sound like a touristy spot, but it’s surprisingly quiet once you’re inside. The whole place is run by one family. They check you in, cook your meals, serve your breakfast, and chat with you if you’re curious about the island.
Rooms are simple and clean. One is Western-style with beds, the others have tatami mats and futons. There’s no elevator, so you’ll need to take the stairs, but the building isn’t tall. Each room has a private bathroom. There’s no onsen, and no big shared baths—it’s not that kind of place. But if you’re coming for one night, it’s more than enough.
What makes this ryokan special is the food. Dinner is served in the small restaurant on the ground floor, and it’s genuinely good. Seasonal fish, anago (sea eel), fresh vegetables, homemade sauces—the kind of meal you’d expect in a much more expensive place. If you need a vegan or halal option, they’ll make it for you. They’re one of the few places in Japan that can do both well, and they take those requests seriously.
Breakfast is simpler but still thoughtful. Grilled fish, miso soup, pickles, rice, tea. Enough to keep you full until lunch. If you have dietary needs, they’ll adjust here too.
Service is informal and kind. The owners speak some English and are used to international guests. They’ll help with luggage, give sightseeing tips, or adjust meal times if your ferry arrives late. Nothing feels scripted or corporate—it’s more like staying with a local family who happens to run a ryokan.
Best for: Families or small groups who want extra space, ocean views, and an easygoing atmosphere away from the crowds.
Price range for two adults: ¥34,000-¥46,000
Miyajima Seaside Hotel sits on the quieter northern coast of the island, a short shuttle ride from the ferry terminal. It’s a bit removed from the main shopping streets and tourist spots, but that’s part of the appeal. The area is peaceful, the shoreline is just steps away, and the sea views are wide open and unobstructed. If you’re looking for calm and space, this part of the island delivers it.
The hotel is larger than most ryokan, with 45 rooms in total. Most are Japanese-style with tatami floors and futons, though a few have Western beds. The rooms are spacious, especially compared to what you’ll find in central Japan. Many face the sea, and the view is especially nice at sunset or early morning. While the building itself is a little dated, everything is well maintained, clean, and functional.
There’s a large public bath inside, and a smaller open-air tub that looks out over the water. The baths aren’t fed by a natural hot spring, but they’re pleasant and relaxing, especially after dinner. If you go later in the evening, it’s usually quiet.
Meals are served in the dining room, with a focus on local specialties. In colder months, they often serve oyster hot pot, grilled fish, or sashimi from the Seto Inland Sea. The presentation is simple but the ingredients are fresh and well prepared. Breakfast is traditional Japanese, with miso soup, rice, grilled fish, and seasonal sides. If you have dietary preferences, it’s best to contact them in advance.
Service is thoughtful and professional. The staff are used to international guests and communicate well. The shuttle service to and from the ferry is fast and easy to arrange, and they’ll gladly store your luggage before or after your stay.
This isn’t a luxury ryokan, and it doesn’t try to be. What you get is space, a quiet location by the sea, and a dependable ryokan-style experience at a reasonable price.
Best for: Couples who want to stay somewhere calm, scenic, and close to the island’s most famous landmarks.
Price range for two adults: ¥36,000-¥66,000
Jukeiso is best known for its view. The ryokan is perched on a hillside above Itsukushima Shrine, and from many of the rooms, the rooftop lounge, or the dining area, you can see the famous torii gate framed by the sea. If you’re staying only one night and want to wake up or eat dinner looking out over Miyajima’s most iconic sight, this is one of the best places to do it.
It takes about five to ten minutes to walk uphill from the main area of the island to reach the property, but the staff can pick you up at the ferry terminal starting from 3 PM. The walk is manageable even with light luggage, but the shuttle is convenient if you’re arriving with bags.
The rooms are traditional, with tatami floors and futons. Each room has its own private bathroom, which isn’t always the case at this price point. Some rooms have a more modern feel than others, but all are clean and quiet. The building itself is modest, and the style is fairly classic, with wooden details and large windows that let in the light.
Dinner is served in a common dining room at the top of the building, with large windows that make the most of the view. The kaiseki-style meal includes seasonal seafood, local produce, and a few regional touches. Most guests find the food fresh and satisfying, even if it isn’t especially elaborate. Breakfast is Japanese-style and served in the same space, with similar care and attention to detail.
There’s a small communal bath on site, open 24 hours, and a private bath that you can reserve when you check in. It’s not an onsen, but it offers a quiet way to unwind at the end of the day.
Jukeiso isn’t flashy. It’s a comfortable, mid-sized ryokan that delivers a rare view in a peaceful setting. The highlight here is less about what’s in the room and more about what’s outside your window.
Best for: Travelers who want a classic ryokan stay in a natural setting, with a focus on atmosphere, tradition, and quiet. Ideal for a honeymoon or a one-night splurge.
Price range for two adults: ¥70,000-¥100,000
Iwaso is the most iconic ryokan on Miyajima, and also the oldest. It was founded in 1854, and it shows, in a good way. The buildings are set inside Momijidani Park, a quiet wooded valley just a few minutes from the shrine. A small stream runs through the grounds. In the early morning, you might see deer walking past your room. At night, the path is lit by soft lanterns. It’s peaceful, timeless, and the opposite of what you get in a modern hotel.
There are three types of rooms: the historic wooden main building, a newer modern wing, and a few standalone cottages. All are traditional in style, with tatami floors, low tables, and sliding doors. Some rooms have private bathrooms, others don’t—it depends on the category. Most guests stay in the main building or the newer wing, where everything is clean, quiet, and well-kept, even if the style leans more classic than luxurious.
Meals are served in your room by a staff member in kimono, which is part of the appeal for many guests. Dinner is a full kaiseki course with seasonal ingredients—expect oysters in winter, local vegetables, maybe a small nabe hotpot, and sashimi. Breakfast is also traditional and includes miso soup, grilled fish, rice, and several small dishes that change daily. Portions are generous, but not overwhelming.
Iwaso also has its own onsen. There’s a large indoor bath and a smaller open-air tub surrounded by trees. It’s not the biggest bath on the island, but the setting—especially at night—is hard to beat. If you go after dinner, you’ll probably have it to yourself.
Service is formal but kind. Most of the staff speak a little English, and they’re used to helping foreign travelers. You’ll be greeted by name. Your futon will be laid out while you’re having dinner. If you ask to leave your bags before check-in, they’ll probably be waiting in your room by the time you arrive.
This isn’t the kind of place where you get sleek design or luxury amenities. But if what you’re looking for is the full, traditional ryokan experience—tatami rooms, onsen baths, seasonal food, and calm surroundings—Iwaso is hard to beat.
Best for: Travelers who prefer modern design, real beds, and a seamless ryokan experience with comfort and privacy.
Price range for two adults: ¥60,000-¥350,000
Kurayado Iroha sits just five minutes from the ferry terminal, on the main street that runs through town. From the outside, it doesn’t look like much. But inside, it’s one of the most refined ryokan on the island. Everything feels deliberate, from the soft lighting and quiet tones in the lobby to the layout of the rooms and the design of the rooftop baths. It’s a modern take on the ryokan experience, and it’s done very well.
The rooms mix Western comfort with traditional Japanese style. You’ll find real beds, not futons, but also tatami mats, low tables, and a tea set waiting when you arrive. Some rooms face the sea, others look toward the mountains. All are minimalist in design, with clean lines, warm wood, and soft fabrics. Every room has a private bathroom, and the larger suites come with extra space and seating areas.
Dinner is served in the dining room, not in your room, and the atmosphere is quiet and elegant. The kaiseki meal changes with the seasons and typically includes a balance of seafood, vegetables, and lighter dishes with careful presentation. It’s not the most complex kaiseki you’ll find in Japan, but it’s thoughtful and well-executed. Breakfast can be either Western or Japanese, depending on what you request when checking in.
One of the highlights here is the rooftop bath. It’s not large, but it’s beautifully designed, and from the open-air tub, you can see out across the Seto Inland Sea. On clear days or in the right room, you can even catch a view of the torii gate. The baths are divided by gender and rotate depending on time of day. They’re not fed by a hot spring, but the setting is calm and private.
Staff are discreet and professional. They speak English well, and service is efficient without being overly formal. Check-in is quick, and they’ll help with anything you need without hovering.
Kurayado Iroha is not a traditional ryokan in the old-fashioned sense. There’s no in-room dining, no vintage wooden interiors. But if you’re looking for a place that’s calm, tasteful, and easy to access—one that delivers a quiet kind of luxury—it’s a strong choice.
If you’re staying just one night, make it count. Yamaichi Bekkan and Ryoso Kawaguchi are excellent value for food lovers. Jukeiso is worth it for the view alone. For full comfort and high-end service, Iwaso and Iroha are both strong picks—but very different in style.
A two-week Japan trip can be relatively affordable, surprisingly expensive, or somewhere in the middle depending on just a few choices: where you stay, how often you move around, and how much you spend on experiences.
If you want my short version, I would plan roughly like this excluding international flights:
budget trip: around ¥180,000 to ¥250,000 per person
comfortable trip: around ¥300,000 to ¥450,000 per person
higher-end trip:¥500,000+ per person
Then add your international flight on top.
That does not mean everyone should aim for the cheapest version. Japan is one of those places where spending a bit more in the right categories can make the whole trip smoother.
Some links on YavaJapan are affiliate links. If you book or buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps support the site, and I only link to places, stays, and experiences I genuinely think are worth recommending.
Quick Answer
For most first-time visitors, I think a realistic two-week budget is usually ¥300,000 to ¥450,000 per person before flights.
That is the range where you can stay in decent hotels, eat well every day, move around without obsessing over every yen, and still leave room for a few memorable experiences.
Could you do it for less?
Yes.
But once people start trying to push the number too low, the trip usually gets worse in the least interesting ways: bad hotel locations, constant budget stress, too much convenience-store food, or skipping the experiences that would have made the trip feel special.
well-located business hotels or mid-range hotels, good food, flexible transport, a few paid experiences
Higher-end
¥500,000+
better hotels or ryokan, more taxis and premium transport choices, stronger food budget, deeper cultural experiences
If you want the category that changes the total most, it is usually accommodation.
How I Would Split the Budget
The latest available JNTO visitor spending data is still useful as a reality check, especially because it shows where travelers usually spend the most.
A typical split looks roughly like this:
45% accommodation
20% food
15% transportation
15% shopping
5% entertainment / experiences
I think that last category is where many people underbudget Japan.
The percentages are useful, but I would not build the whole trip around them mechanically.
What matters more is understanding which categories are flexible, which are not, and where spending a little more actually improves the trip.
International Flights
Flights are obviously a big part of the total trip cost, but they vary so much by origin that I do not like pretending there is one universal answer.
If you are flying from somewhere in Asia, the number can be very reasonable.
If you are flying from Europe, North America, or Australia, the flight can easily become one of the biggest single expenses of the whole trip.
That is why I prefer to budget the trip itself first, then add the flight separately.
My Flight-Budget Approach
I would usually estimate flights in one of these three buckets:
low: if you are flying from nearby or using a particularly good deal
normal: if you are booking a regular long-haul economy ticket with decent timing
high: if you are flying in peak season or booking late
Trying to save too much here can also backfire if you end up with bad flight times, long layovers, or extra baggage fees.
Accommodation
Accommodation is where the budget moves fastest.
This is also where a lot of people make bad decisions.
Trying to save a small amount by staying in the wrong area can cost you more in transport, time, and energy than you save on the room itself.
Tokyo, Kyoto, and peak travel periods can push them much higher.
Where I Would Spend a Bit More
If I were trying to optimize a first trip, I would usually spend a little more for:
better location
easy station access
a room size you can actually live with
at least one special stay, especially if that means a good ryokan
I would cut room luxury before I cut location.
That is almost always the smarter trade.
Best Way to Book Hotels in Japan
For hotels and ryokan, I still think it is worth checking both Booking.com and Agoda.
Availability, room type, and pricing can differ more than people expect.
If I am looking for a traditional stay, I also like checking specialist options and my own ryokan guides rather than relying only on giant booking sites.
Food
Food is one of the best parts of traveling in Japan, and also one of the categories where people worry too much.
Japan does not require a giant food budget to eat well.
That is one of the reasons I think Japan can feel surprisingly good value once you are here.
Typical Food Budget
Type
Typical price
Budget meals
¥700-¥1,300 per meal
Mid-range restaurants
¥1,500-¥3,000 per meal
Casual izakaya with drinks
¥3,000-¥7,000 per person
Fine dining
from ¥12,000 per person
Since moving to Tokyo in 2019, I have genuinely found it hard to have a bad meal in Japan, even at the cheap end.
That does not mean every restaurant is unforgettable. It means the quality floor is high.
Where I Would Save
Food is one category where I think it is perfectly fine to mix budgets.
You do not need three expensive meals every day.
One of the best ways to travel in Japan is to alternate between:
cheap local lunches
convenience-store breakfasts when practical
the occasional nicer dinner
a few special food experiences if that matters to you
If you are short on time, it is late, or you just do not want to overspend, chains like Yoshinoya, Matsuya, and Sukiya are still genuinely useful.
What I Would Not Do
I would not build the trip around famous places with one-hour queues unless you are very sure they are worth it to you.
A lot of the meals people remember most in Japan are not the places with the longest line.
They are the slightly old-fashioned restaurants with regulars, friendly owners, and a good atmosphere.
Transportation
Transport is one of the categories people overcomplicate before they come to Japan.
The big question used to be the JR Pass.
Now, much more often, the answer is simply that the JR Pass is not worth it.
Long-Distance Transportation
A single shinkansen trip is not cheap, but it is also not the disaster some first-time visitors imagine.
If you are doing the classic Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route with maybe one or two extra moves, buying tickets individually often makes more sense than forcing a JR Pass into the plan.
Local Transportation
For day-to-day city transport, the numbers are much easier to live with.
metro and local train fares are often around ¥180 to ¥400 per trip
many day trips using local trains are still manageable
IC cards make the whole thing much easier
My Transport Strategy
I would budget generously enough that you do not spend the trip making small bad decisions just to save a little.
Examples:
staying too far out because the room was cheaper
refusing a convenient train because of a minor fare difference
obsessing over rail passes that do not actually save much
That said, I still would not default to taxis or premium rail upgrades unless the trip budget clearly allows it.
Best Way to Buy Train Tickets
If you are not traveling during major domestic holiday periods, buying shinkansen tickets once you are in Japan is often completely fine.
If you want to book in advance, SmartEX can work, although some foreign cards still fail there.
This is the category travelers underbudget most often.
According to JNTO, visitors spend only a small share of their trip budget on entertainment services. I think that is one of the least interesting ways to budget a Japan trip.
If you are already flying all the way here, I would rather cut a little on shopping or room category and leave space for one or two experiences you will actually remember.
Typical Activity Costs
Type
Typical price
Major temples and shrines
free to ¥600
Museums
¥500-¥1,500
Major attractions
¥3,000-¥4,000
Theme parks
¥8,000-¥15,000
Group cultural experiences
¥3,000-¥10,000
Private cultural experiences
¥14,000-¥50,000
Learn from renowned swordsmiths and make your own knife. Photo credit: Wabunka
Where I Would Spend More
If there is one place I think a lot of people should spend more, it is here.
You do not need many expensive experiences.
But one or two good ones can end up being the part of the trip you remember most.
For private cultural experiences, Wabunka is still the strongest option I know in Japan.
They focus on private cultural experiences and stays for international travelers, work directly with respected hosts such as artisans, monks, and artists, and the experiences feel much more personal than the standard marketplace version of this kind of activity. There are no mixed groups, and when needed they include an interpreter so the exchange stays smooth.
For popular attractions and simpler group tours, Klook is still very useful.
For group tours and experiences where you want something a bit stronger than the cheapest mass-market option, Viator can also be worth checking.
Shopping and Souvenirs
This category depends heavily on the traveler.
Some people barely buy anything.
Other people arrive with one suitcase and leave with two.
According to JNTO, shopping often takes a similar share of the budget as transportation, which sounds about right to me for a lot of first-time visitors.
Typical Shopping Ranges
Type
Typical price
Small traditional items
¥500-¥2,000
Mid-range gifts
¥1,500-¥4,000
Premium craft items
¥5,000-¥20,000+
At a flea market in Nakano. The frame on the right is now mine.
My Shopping Advice
Do not arrive in Japan with a suitcase that is already full.
You will regret it.
And do not only shop in the obvious giant chains.
Places like Don Quijote, Daiso, and Tokyu Hands are useful, but some of the best purchases come from flea markets, artisan shops, ceramics stores, and smaller local brands you find while walking around.
How can you resist that. Ceramics shop in Kichijoji.
What People Usually Underbudget
If I had to call out the three categories people most often misjudge, they would be:
Accommodation, because bad location choices make the trip worse fast
Experiences, because people leave too little room for the parts of the trip they will remember most
Shopping, because Japan makes it very easy to spend more than you planned once you are actually here
Food is the category I worry about least.
Japan gives you too many good options at too many price points for food to be the thing that wrecks the budget unless you are actively trying to eat at the expensive end every day.
My Realistic Final Recommendation
If you want the safest planning number for a first two-week trip to Japan, I would budget ¥300,000 to ¥450,000 per person before flights.
That is the range where the trip usually feels comfortable without being extravagant.
If you want to go cheaper, it is possible.
Just be careful not to save money in ways that make the whole trip feel smaller, more stressful, or less memorable.
Japan can absolutely be expensive.
But in my experience, it is also one of the easiest countries to make feel worth the money if you spend in the right places.
Just an hour away from Tokyo by train, Oiso is ideal for people who want to escape crowded tourist spots and experience the charm of a quiet Japanese town. As a historic fishing town and the site where Japan’s first public beach opened in 1885, Oiso still carries a relaxed seaside atmosphere. It’s also a great destination for architecture enthusiasts, with beautifully preserved and renovated old houses once owned by notable figures, now open for visits.
In this guide, you will find the perfect itinerary for a day trip or overnight stay in Oiso. I’ve also highlighted the main event that puts Oiso on the map: the Sagicho Festival, a spectacular fire festival held every January.
If you’re short on time, here’s the perfect Oiso itinerary in a nutshell to help you plan your trip.
Best Time to Visit: Autumn is ideal for enjoying the fall colors, making places like Joyama Park even more beautiful. Visit in January for the Sagicho Festival. Summer is perfect for those seaside town vibes.
Duration: A day trip works, but I recommend staying overnight if you want to have time to relax and explore the town’s sightseeing spots without rushing.
How to Get There: Oiso is about an hour from Tokyo Station on the JR Tokaido Line. Get off at Oiso Station, and most places of interest are a short walk or bike ride away.
Things to do: Visit the preserved historical houses, dating back 50 to 100 years, to appreciate traditional Japanese architecture at Meiji Memorial Garden, Shigeru Yoshida’s Residence, and Former Toson Shimazaki Residence. Take a stroll through the town, along the beach, and in the parks to experience local Japanese life.
Where to Stay: The Oiso Prince Hotel is the top option. Its convenient location by the beach, great onsen, and comfortable rooms make it a perfect choice for both relaxing and sightseeing.
Things to Do in Oiso
Below, find the best things to see and do in Oiso. I’ve listed the places of interest in the order you should visit them, starting from the closest to the furthest from the station. You can follow this itinerary as is.
1. Shigitatsuan (Haiku Dojo)
Shigitatsuan is one of Japan’s top three haiku dojo (I didn’t know that was a thing either before visiting Oiso) where people learn and practice haiku poetry. From the street, you will notice its thatched roof and the greenery surrounding it. It’s a place full of history and even if you’re not into poetry, the traditional teahouse-style building and its charm make it worth visiting.
The entrance of Shigitatsuan
It’s also a short walk from the station and on the way to the sightseeing spots listed below, which makes it easy to fit into your itinerary.
The old Toson Shimazaki Residence in Oiso is where the renowned author spent his final years before his death in 1943. The house, known as “Shizuka no Kusa-ya” (Quiet Grass Hut), reflects his preference for simplicity. It’s a modest single-story structure with cedar bark walls and rare Taisho-era glass sliding doors.
Surrounded by a small garden featuring young leaves of kaname and mochi trees, as well as seasonal flowers like morning glories and bush clovers, the residence offers a glimpse into Shimazaki’s life. He found comfort in this setting, referring to the house as his “quiet grass hut”.
It’s only 200 meters from Shigitatsuan and the way to the third item on this list.
I personally wouldn’t exactly call this a sightseeing spot, and you might pass by without noticing. But since it’s on the way to the next place of interest, I thought I’d mention it.
The Former Tokaido Pine Tree-lined road in Oiso is a remnant of the old Tokaido highway from the Edo period. Over 400 years ago, pine trees were planted along the route to provide shade and guide travelers. In Oiso, sections of these pine-lined paths still exist, with one located on the main road that passes by Oiso Junior High School and leads to the Meiji Memorial Garden, our next stop on this list.
This is my favorite place in Oiso. The garden has beautifully preserved historical houses that give you a look at how life was like for some of the wealthiest and most powerful Japanese people 100 years ago.
The houses are spacious, built in a gankou-zukuri style (雁行造り) or flying geese style, meant to allow natural sunlight into all rooms of the house by ensuring no spaces are blocked by other parts of the structure.
Imagine a house like this as a vacation house
Their architecture and interior are also stunning, combining traditional Japanese design with a touch of Western influence.
Walking through the houses, you can see how each room was designed with purpose. For example, the houses are slightly elevated and the window are positioned in a certain way that frames the view like a painting when you sit on the tatami.
Summum of relaxationI love this design
There’s no furniture inside the houses so they can feel empty, but one of them has a furnished kitchen and bathroom with everyday objects like plates and utensils, which makes it easier to imagine what life was like back then.
Oiso-Joyama Park is a peaceful spot for a walk, with paths winding through trees, the local history museum, and a tea house at the entrance. The park is especially beautiful in autumn when the leaves turn red and orange. If you’re in Oiso during the fall, it’s definitely worth visiting for the seasonal colors. Otherwise, the park is a good addition to your trip but not a highlight on its own.
The local history museum’s entrance is actually impressive
One thing that makes it stand out though, is the view of Mount Fuji and the Izu Peninsula from the top. On a clear day, the view is amazing, but it depends entirely on the weather—so it’s a bit of a gamble.
The tea house at the entrance is worth checking out. Its traditional tea garden around it create a calming atmosphere, and you can enjoy the scenery while sitting inside. It’s perfect for a short break.
The waiting space within the garden of the tea house
The Former Residence of Shigeru Yoshida in Oiso is where Japan’s post-war Prime Minister spent his later years. Originally built in 1884 by his adoptive father, the house became Shigeru’s main residence from 1945 onwards. The property showcases traditional Japanese architecture, including a thatched roof and traditional gardens reflecting the style of the era.
You can explore the restored rooms and see how Yoshida lived during his time here. The estate also includes the Kabuto Gate and the Seven Sages Hall, which are recognized as cultural properties. It’s located just across the road from Joyama Park, so be sure to visit both places one after the other.
Oiso Beach is a great spot for a walk or to just sit and enjoy the view. It’s not as famous as beaches like Kamakura or Enoshima, so it feels quieter and less touristy. It’s especially nice in the morning or evening when it’s peaceful and you can really enjoy the coastal vibe.
Preparation for the Sagicho Festival at Oiso Beach
Right next to the beach, you’ll find Oiso Connect, a large building that opened in 2021 that stands out with its modern design in this otherwise traditional town. Inside, there’s a shop selling local products on the first floor and a modern café with ocean views on the second floor. The pancakes here might look massive, but they’re surprisingly easy to eat. You can’t go wrong with any option, but if you ask me, the banana chocolate is the one to try.
This might seem unusual to include in a “things to do” list, but the Oiso Prince Hotel is a destination in itself. Many people come to Oiso just to stay at this hotel because it’s affordable and offers great facilities. The onsen looks modern and luxurious, and while the spa costs an additional ¥1,600, it’s mixed and provides several types of baths and rooms, and an infinity pool with stunning ocean views.
The rooms are beautiful and comfortable, with options for either a mountain view or an ocean view. The multi course dinner features a buffet for starters and desserts, with a plated main dish that feels like it came from an expensive restaurant.
I love rooms with a view like this
I didn’t expect to find such a fine hotel in Oiso, and was genuinely impressed. Especially considering the price—only slightly more expensive than the cheapest low-end hotels in Tokyo. It’s a great way to relax after exploring Oiso and would recommend staying overnight if your schedule allows.
Where to Eat in Oiso
You probably won’t have more than two or three meals in Oiso, depending on whether you stay overnight. Here are the best options to try some local, popular restaurants and specialties:
Hayashi-tei
Tonkatsu restaurant located about a 5-minute walk from the station. The wooden interior is cozy and retro, and the food is excellent, with generous portions.
The interior of Hayashi-teiI particularly enjoyed the miso soup
Sugimoto looks like a classic, old-style Japanese restaurant. As the name suggests, they specialize in chicken dishes like karaage (fried chicken) and yakitori (grilled chicken). Just note that they only accept cash.
I already mentioned Oiso Connect above for its pancakes. But it also serves breakfast and proper meals. The particularity is that everything is cooked with fresh, local ingredients.
This looks big but the pancakes were so fluffy I finished the whole plate three seconds after this photo
If you’re staying overnight in Oiso, I’d recommend having dinner at the Prince Hotel. Their multi-course dinner is excellent, with great service. Starters and desserts are buffet-style, so you’ll probably end up eating too much and rolling back to your room—just like I did.
Main dish at Prince Hotel
Popular Shops in Oiso
Whenever I visit a local town, I always try to spend some money in local restaurants and shops. A lot of Japanese towns rely on tourism to sustain their economy, so I like to find something to buy, even if it’s just a small omiyage (souvenir) for friends.
Shinkine Kashiho (新杵菓子舗)
This long-established Japanese confectionery shop is famous for its saigyo manju, a steamed bun filled with sweet red bean paste. It has an excellent reputation among locals. Note that they only accept cash.
Kamaboko is a Japanese fish cake made from minced white fish, salt, and other seasonings, that’s steamed, grilled, baked, or fried. It can be eaten on its own, or added to soups, noodles, or rice dishes. This shop is another favorite among locals.
Not introducing Oiso Connect again, its shop on the first floor offers local products, including fresh fish and vegetables, and a variety of souvenirs. I’d recommend picking up one of their local beers or draft cola.
Oiso is compact, and most places are within walking distance. However, Oiso Joyama Park and the Former Residence of Shigeru Yoshida are about a 30-minute walk from the station, and the Prince Hotel is another 15 minutes further, making it a total of 45 minutes on foot from the station.
If you enjoy walking this shouldn’t be an issue, especially since the town is quiet and local, offering a pleasant atmosphere to explore on foot.
The streets are really quietLocal life
But for a quicker and equally pleasant option, you can rent a bike from the Tourism Information Center located in front of the station (¥500 per rental plus a ¥2,000 deposit) or use Hello Cycling, a bike-sharing app widely available in the Tokyo area.
Rental prices through Hello Cycling range from ¥1,800 to ¥3,000 for a 12-hour period, depending on the bike type. To use Hello Cycling, you’ll need to download the app, create an account, and register a payment method. It’s a good idea to set this up in advance to avoid any last-minute issues.
Cycling is a fun and active way to see the town, but be aware that there are some uphill and downhill areas, which might be tough if you’re not used to biking.
And of course, buses and taxis are also available for those who prefer not to walk or bike. The town is small enough that getting around is straightforward, no matter your choice.
Oiso’s Sagicho Fire Festival
If you’re visiting Oiso in mid-January, make sure to check out the Sagicho Festival. This traditional fire festival takes place every year on Oiso Beach and has been celebrated for over 400 years. It’s not widely known even among Japanese people, so if you’re looking to experience authentic Japan beyond the typical tourist spots, this is a must-see. I’ve participated myself and highly recommend it.
What is the Sagicho Festival?
The Sagicho Festival is a way for locals to mark the end of the New Year celebrations. People gather their old decorations and bring them to the beach, where they’re stuffed into massive bamboo-and-pine structures called saito, dedicated to the local guardian deity called Dosojin. These saito are burned in the evening as part of the ritual to purify the past year and pray for good fortune in the year ahead.
A saito on fire on the beach
The Sagicho Festival is held in various part of Japan, but Oiso’s version stand out with several unique events:
Ihciban Musuko which marks the start of the festival. Children carry stones tied with ropes and visit local homes, pounding the ground with the stones while chanting wishes for the happiness of the residents. This symbolizes driving the evil spirits back into the depth fo the earth.
Nanatoko Mairi, where residents and visitors tour and pray at small huts called okariya temporarily set up along the town’s streets. Children from the town stay at these okariya, looking after them while playing games as they wait for visitors. Visitors toss coins into the okariya’s donation box before praying, and at the end of the day, the children share the money among themselves.
The Yannagokko tug-of-war takes place in the sea, on the night of the festival. Men dressed in fundoshi (traditional loincloths) run into the freezing ocean as part of a ritual that symbolizes driving away evil spirits and praying for a bountiful harvest.
The little huts where kids wait for visitors to come pray and toss a coin
The Preparations
The festival technically begins weeks in advance with preparations for the saito bonfires. In total, there are nine saito. Preparations intensify on the day of the festival, as locals bring their decorations to the beach to burn and help put the finishing touches on the saito. Since each saito represents a district in Oiso, residents from each area gather around their respective bonfires.
Locals preparing the saitoYeah, that’s me
The atmosphere is lively and friendly, with people chatting and working together to ensure everything is ready. On the day of the festival, attendees also prepare dango (rice dumplings), which are meant to be roasted over the saito fires later in the evening.
If you’re in Oiso on the day of the festival, don’t miss the chance to visit Oiso Beach in the morning to witness the hustle and bustle of locals preparing their saito. If you approach them, they’ll likely be happy to chat with you and even invite you to join in the preparations.
What to Expect at the Festival
Saito Bonfires
The saito are lit around 6:30pm, and the entire beach comes alive with light. The flames are massive, and the heat is intense when you get close to the saito. With no barriers and both older people and children running around the enormous bonfire, the atmosphere feels a bit wild.
The wind moves the flames from side to side, sending sparks flying into the crowd. At one point, the bamboo structure collapses, and the crowd has to quickly move out of the way to dodge it. This slight sense of danger combined with the roaring fire is part of what makes the experience so thrilling.
Roasting Dango
Visitors to the festival carry long bamboo sticks with dango attached to the ends. The idea is to roast the dango over the fire, as eating them is believed to bring good health for the year ahead. But it’s easier said than done. Holding the bamboo stick from one end while getting close enough to the intense flames is harder than it looks. For a start, it’s actually heavy. Then, you’ll likely find yourself stepping back several times just to cool off from the intense heat emanating from the fire.
Everybody wants a front seat to roast their dango
Yannagokko Ritual
The festival’s final event is the Yannagokko ritual. Men from the town dressed in nothing else than a fundoshi run into the sea and mimic a tug-of-war game with other men on the beach. In the middle of the rope sits a sleigh with a box on top, which is believed to contain an evil spirit. After the symbolic tug-of-war ends, the men carry the box out of the water and break it.
Then, they sit on the sleigh—still dressed in just their fundoshi—and are pulled off the beach and into the town by locals and festival visitors. The sleigh makes its way to the district shrine, stopping occasionally for a traditional chant.
Getting ready to be pulled throughout the town
The whole process takes about 30 minutes, and yes, the men remain in their fundoshi throughout—at night, in the middle of January, in the freezing Japanese countryside, after taking a dip in the ocean.
Once they arrive at the shrine, they’re welcomed with sake and tofu, which is also offered to everyone who helped pull the sleigh. This Yannagokko part of the festival is actually really fun to watch and join. The energy is high, and the crowd gets really into it, cheering and celebrating together.
Tips for Attending
Arrive 30 minutes to one hour before: There’s no need to worry about specific seating, but arriving a little early lets you soak up the atmosphere before the festivities begin.
How to dress: January nights can be cold, but the crowds and the fire will keep you warm, so you likely won’t feel chilly. Just keep in mind that your clothes will smell like smoke afterwards, so it’s probably best to leave your brand new Burberry long coat you got for Christmas at the hotel.
The Sagicho Festival is raw, exciting, and full of energy. Unlike most festivals, it has a truly local vibe, and you’ll feel like an active participant rather than just part of the audience. If you’re in Oiso in January, I strongly recommend you check it out.
The Bottom Line
Oiso might not be as well-known as towns like Kamakura or Kawagoe, but that’s exactly what makes it special. Interestingly, the famous author Haruki Murakami (Kafka on the Shore, 1Q84) resides here. It’s easy to see why—the quiet atmosphere and local life have a unique appeal. Away from the crowds and non-touristy, I was also really impressed by this quiet little town. Its peaceful vibe is a refreshing change from Tokyo’s busyness. People are friendly too. For instance, the clerk at the convenience store near the station was surprised to meet foreigners who could speak Japanese and started chatting with us. That’s something you’d probably never experience in the cities part of the usual Japan trip itinerary.
Geisha, written 芸者 in Japanese, literally means “person of art.” The first kanji, 芸, conveys the meaning of art or performance, while 者 refers to a person, and is often used in combination with other kanji to describe someone’s role or profession. In Kyoto, geisha are called geiko, and those who are still in training are known as maiko.
At their core, geiko are highly skilled entertainers trained in traditional arts such as dance, music, conversation, and hosting. They emerged around the 18th century and have been part of the Japanese culture ever since. Even though their numbers have decreased significantly since their peak before World War II, it’s still possible to meet real geisha and enter their world through a private dinner in a Kyoto ochaya (tea house).
However, booking such an experience is notoriously difficult. Reservations usually require an introduction, and unless you’re well-connected and fluent in Japanese, it’s nearly impossible to arrange on your own.
Very few companies have the connections to organize this kind of experience—especially one that isn’t designed for tourists but reflects what Japanese local customers would receive. Wabunka is one of those rare companies, specializing in private and authentic cultural experiences.
Thanks to Wabunka, I had the chance to attend one of these dinners. What I thought would be just a high-priced experience turned out to be one of the most memorable evenings I’ve ever had in Japan.
What Happens During a Dinner with Geiko and Maiko?
The evening started outside the ochaya, tucked away in Kyoto’s Gion Higashi district, one of the city’s five geisha districts. In order to ensure stress-free communication with the geiko and maiko attending the dinner, Wabunka arranges a private guide and interpreter for all bookings. My guide for the night, Selina, was already waiting for me when I arrived.
From the outside, the ochaya looked beautiful and inviting, with soft lights and a wooden design that felt both traditional and elegant. It gave off a sense of mystery—the kind of place where you don’t know what happens inside, but you know it must be something special. Tonight, I was finally going to see for myself.
Before heading inside, Selina explained the traditions of ozashiki (banquets) and the culture surrounding geiko and maiko. It is not my first time joining a Wabunka experience (I can’t recommend them enough – they offer the most authentic experiences in Japan), but I’m always impressed by how kind and knowledgeable their guides are.
Once we entered, we were guided upstairs to a private ozashiki room, a beautifully arranged tatami-floored space. I’m always a bit nervous about traditional Japanese rooms because they often have low tables and floor chairs. These chairs have a backrest but no legs, so you’re still sitting directly on the floor. This usually means having to sit cross-legged or in seiza position, which can get uncomfortable quickly, especially for people with non-existent flexibility (like me). But this ozashiki room was surprisingly comfortable. It had a recessed space under the table, so I wouldn’t have to deal with the usual discomfort. My legs sighed with relief.
As we settled in, our guide Selina helped us order our drinks, and soon after, the geiko and maiko entered to greet us. The geiko was Masaki, an experienced artist, elegant and confident. The maiko was Masane, a promising apprentice with youthful grace and charm. Both belong to Ochaya Man, the teahouse where this experience takes place, owned by the fourth-generation proprietress Masami Ueyanagi.
The interior of an ozashiki room. Photo credit Wabunka
I’m not going to lie. I was quite nervous about meeting a real geiko and maiko, especially in a language I don’t speak fluently. But from the moment they stepped into the room, the atmosphere transformed. Their presence filled the space with warmth and energy.
I had seen geiko and maiko passing by on the streets, but being so close to them, seeing their kimono and make-up up close, being able to hear their voices, felt completely different. As we started chatting I could ask many questions that had been in my mind for a long time.
Why did they decide to pursue this specific profession, how do they see the profession evolving in the coming decades, what do their daily lives look like outside of appointments, and of course what did they think of the current over-tourism trend (Kyoto even started limiting access to specific streets in Gion in April 2024), among other things.
The conversation flowed effortlessly, with my guide translating everything flawlessly.
While we chatted, the meal began. We were served a kaiseki dinner (Japanese style multi-course meal), with each dish beautifully arranged and perfectly balanced, as usual with kaiseki meals. The in-house chef tailored the menu to our preferences, offering a tempura dish instead of raw fish for one course after a last-minute request of one of my companions (but please, do communicate any dietary preferences in advance when booking to avoid any surprise for the chef).
Partway through the evening, Masane performed a traditional dance while Masaki accompanied her on the shamisen, a traditional three-stringed instrument. The guide told me these performances were often the highlight of the evening. I understood why right away. The precision of their movements, their grace acquired after years of dedication, the music, and the atmosphere all came together to create a moment I’ll never forget.
Preparing for the performance
After the performances came ozashiki asobi, or traditional parlor games. We played Konpira Funefune, a rhythmic hand game, and Toratora, a fast-paced version of rock-paper-scissors. By this point, I noticed my initial nervousness had completely vanished. I was actually surprised at how fun these simple games were. Maybe it was due to the geiko and maiko being such good entertainers, or maybe because of the few drinks I had so far (drinks were unlimited and Masaki and Masane were refilling my cup as soon as I finished it), but it was surprisingly very easy for me to join the fun despite my introverted nature.
By the end of the games, I felt completely at ease, and the evening had flown by faster than I could have imagined.
Playing Konpira Funefune, surprisingly really fun game
After a final chat, it was time to say goodbye to Masaki and Masane and leave the ochaya. As we stepped out, my friends and I looked at each other and said almost in unison: “That was amazing”.
Since we were heading in the same direction, we walked with Selina for a few streets, chatting about our impressions and asking her a few last questions. Then we parted ways and headed back to our hotel.
Why This Experience Is Special
Before attending, I’ll admit I was skeptical about the cost of this kind of experience. I’d always thought that a dinner with geiko and maiko might be overpriced for what it was.
But I was completely wrong.
What makes a geiko and maiko dinner so special is the personal connection you feel throughout the evening. Being able to speak directly with them, ask questions, and see their performances up close is something you can’t experience anywhere else.
Meeting the geiko and maiko in private changes everything. Photo credit Wabunka
The ochaya itself added to the magic. You could feel this place was authentic, and the ozashiki was private and comfortable, perfect for enjoying the dinner and chatting with the geiko and maiko.
Something else that really stood out throughout the night is the hospitality. The geiko and maiko poured drinks for me, refilled my cup before I even noticed it was empty, the in-house chef accommodated our dietary preferences, and every moment of the evening felt smooth and seamless.
Is a Private Geisha Dinner Worth It?
Absolutely.
If you’re interested in the geiko and maiko culture or looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, I highly recommend this experience.
That said, it’s important to note that this evening is on the expensive side. It’s worth considering only if you have the budget or if it’s a lifelong dream of yours.
For other ways to see and meet geisha in Kyoto, read my full guide here. My top recommendation is this behind-the-scenes experience, where you can visit off-limits areas of an ochaya and even learn from the proprietress herself (on top of meeting a maiko, talking with her, and watching her performance). As you can imagine this experience is not cheap, but it is more affordable than a more classic full-course dinner experience as food won’t be served.
Opportunities like this are incredibly rare. With fewer geiko and maiko in Japan today, this is a unique chance to meet some of the most talented geiko and maiko of our time in the heart of Kyoto’s most famous geisha district.
If you’d like to book this geiko and maiko dinner, you can do so through Wabunka. They’ll arrange everything for you, including a private guide and securing access to some of Kyoto’s best geiko and maiko. But be prepared to have multiple dates available for flexibility as these bookings are notoriously difficult to secure.
I remember trying pottery as a teenager, and my creations ended up looking like a baby had smashed some clay into random shapes.
So, naturally, I was a little worried when I decided to join a 2-hour private kintsugi experience at Utsuwa Omusubi HANARE, located in the heart of Omotesando, Tokyo. Would I be able to create my own piece of kintsugi or would I end up with a disaster on my hands?
Kintsugi, a traditional Japanese art form, repairs broken pottery with lacquer and powdered precious metals, creating something more beautiful than before. Kintsugi is deeply related to wabi-sabi (the beauty of imperfection). But to truly understand its philosophy, you need to practice it yourself.
Beyond philosophy, I’d often heard that kintsugi could put you in a state of active meditation, but I didn’t quite get it. Until I tried it.
This Kintsugi Class in Tokyo is Offered by Wabunka
If you haven’t heard of Wabunka, I highly recommend checking them out. They provide some of the most authentic Japanese cultural experiences, all in private settings. No crowded classes or strangers—just you and an expert guiding you through the art (and an interpreter when the expert does not speak English, which only adds to the immersion). And all their instructors are highly skilled professionals well-known in their industry. If you’re looking for non-touristy and cultural things to do in Japan, they have the best selection by far.
Since I work with Wabunka regularly as part of my job in the Japan travel industry, I was fortunate enough to be invited to this kintsugi workshop.
And since I recently moved into a new apartment and was just thinking about upgrading my $2 IKEA tableware, I jumped at the opportunity. Ready for the challenge.
First Impressions: The Setting
I knew this was going to be a special experience when I saw the workshop was in Omotesando, a modern district in Tokyo known for luxury brands, art galleries, and stylish shops. It’s one of my favorite areas to explore.
The kintsugi class takes place at Utsuwa Omusubi HANARE, a beautiful gallery run by Utsuwa Omusubi, a major kintsugi shop in Tokyo. Utsuwa Omusubi itself is over 128 years old and is a must-visit shop for anyone who loves ceramics (Google Maps link here). The kintsugi workshop is held in the gallery space nearby, adding to the charm of the experience.
The shelves of Utsuwa Omusubi HANARE are filled with beautiful pottery
And that’s where we were greeted by Aya-san, our instructor.
Aya-san, dressed beautifully in a kimono, warmly welcomed us and showed us around. The walls were lined with stunning pottery, offering a glimpse of what we might achieve—hopefully, I thought, despite my lack of skills.
We were soon invited to sit around a gorgeous wooden table (the nicest I’ve ever seen!), where we got to choose the piece of ceramics we wanted to repair.
If you’re attending the workshop as a couple or family, I’d recommend choosing the same item in different sizes or colors. Aya-san mentioned that traditionally, blue is often associated with men and red with women in Japanese culture. The blue items were also slightly larger than the red ones, which added to the symbolism. But since I was with a friend, I chose a red cup that I thought would be perfect for my after-lunch coffee.
I could choose any of these broken pottery for this kintsugi class
Gluing it Back Together
The first step was to sand the broken edges of the ceramic piece, which we did under Aya-san’s gentle guidance. Then we mixed the glue ourselves—no need to worry, though, as Aya-san had pre-measured everything for us. I applied the glue to the broken area and pressed the pieces together.
The glue is black
Once the glue dried, Aya-san showed us how to use a small knife to remove any excess glue around the break. It looked simple when she did it, but giving the right amount of pressure with the knife was actually challenging. But after a few tries (and Aya-san’s help), I finally got it and managed to remove all the excess glue.
Removing the excess glue was not as easy as it seemed
The Grind and the Putty
At this point, you might be wondering (I definitely was), what happens if the cracks are too small, or if we’ve lost a piece entirely, or it’s shattered into so many tiny fragments that there’s nothing left to glue? How do we fix that? We can’t just piece together a thousand shards!
That’s when Aya-san showed us the solution—putty. She carefully demonstrated how to apply it to the areas where parts of the ceramic were missing.
At first, the putty looked like a rough little bump sticking out of the pottery, not quite part of the piece yet. To fix that, Aya-san explained we needed to smooth it down and make it look seamless with tiny pieces of sandpaper.
The chunky putty is clearly visible on the cup
But before that, we needed to let the putty dry for about 15 minutes.
During this wait, Aya-san shared fascinating insights about the history of kintsugi, the different techniques and lacquers, and we discussed the philosophy behind the art.
Once the putty hardened, we sanded it to even out the surface between the ceramics and the putty. This was the most time-consuming step, but also the one that helped me enter that meditative state everyone talks about.
Minutes flew by. The process was simple enough—just gentle, repetitive motions—but it required patience. By running my fingers over the cup, I could feel how much of a bump was left. Each time, I could tell I was getting closer to that smooth, unified surface between the putty and the ceramics. With every pass of the sandpaper, the difference grew fainter, until my fingers could no longer detect the bump. That’s when I knew it was ready.
Sanding the putty was the longest process of the workshop
It was now time for the most iconic part of kintsugi: applying the lacquer.
Finishing Touches: The Lacquer and Gold
Using a fine brush dipped in red lacquer, I carefully traced the cracks and covered the putty with the iconic deep red lacquer. Then, I wiped off the excess with damp cotton swabs.
The iconic red lacquer
While waiting for the lacquer to dry, Aya-san served us traditional Japanese sweets and hot green tea. We chatted about her experiences, the history of the shop, and she offered us additional tips for future projects.
After the lacquer had dried, it was time for the final step: applying the dust powder to the lacquer. Aya-san offered us a choice between silver and gold powder. I went with gold, thinking it would look perfect with the red patterns on my cup.
We will cover the red lacquer with this gold powder
This part was simple but incredibly satisfying. Using a small ball of wool, I gently dabbed it into the gold powder and lightly brushed it over the lacquer. The powder stuck effortlessly, clinging to the lacquer and filling in the cracks. Watching the red lacquer gradually disappear beneath a shimmering layer of gold was mesmerizing. In that moment, I finally saw my finished kintsugi piece come to life—my own, unique kintsugi creation.
I can’t wait to use this cup
Just like that, two hours flew by. Aya-san packed our new kintsugi pieces in a sturdy wooden box, perfect for safely bringing them home (and yes, it’s airplane-friendly).
Aya-san carefully packed my finished item
We said our warm goodbyes, and I proudly headed home, already thinking about where to display my new cup for all to see.
A Special Kintsugi Workshop in Tokyo
So, is this kintsugi experience in Tokyo worth it?
Absolutely.
It’s a really cool souvenir, made even more special because you created it yourself. Learning directly from Aya-san in such a beautiful setting made the experience unforgettable. And remember that this experience is completely private. You won’t have any strangers with you, and you can ask all the questions you want to Aya-san.
Japan is worth visiting year-round. I really believe that.
But if you have flexibility, I do not think all periods are equally good.
Some months are easier, more comfortable, and more rewarding than others. Some are beautiful but crowded. Some are only worth it if you know exactly what you are signing up for.
If you want my short version, it is this: fall is the best time to visit Japan for most people, while cherry blossom season is the most famous.
If you are planning a first trip to Japan and want the easiest overall answer, I would usually choose October to early December.
That is when the weather is more comfortable, the humidity is gone, the fall colors are beautiful, and the trip usually feels easier than it does in summer or during peak cherry blossom season.
If your dream is to see cherry blossoms, then spring can absolutely be worth it. Just go in knowing that you are choosing one of the busiest and most expensive periods of the year.
If your goal is festivals, fireworks, and summer atmosphere, then summer can still be a great time to visit. I just would not pretend it is an easy season. Japan in summer is brutally hot and humid.
If you want the periods I would most often avoid, they are usually rainy season, Golden Week, Obon, and New Year.
If You Want the Short Version
Best overall for most people: October, November, and early December
Best for cherry blossoms: late March to early April, depending on the year and region
Best for summer festivals: July and August
Best for fall colors: November in many parts of Japan
Best if you want lower crowds: late autumn, early winter, or some parts of winter outside major holiday periods
Best Seasons to Visit Japan
Spring
Spring is the obvious answer for a lot of people because of cherry blossoms. And yes, sakura season really is beautiful enough to justify the hype.
If you have always wanted to see Japan during cherry blossom season, I would not talk you out of it.
The problem is that you will not be the only one with that idea.
Flights and hotels can get expensive, famous spots get packed, and the whole trip requires more planning. If you are fine with that tradeoff, spring can still be one of the best times to come.
Japanese locals having picnic under the cherry blossom in Yoyogi Park, Tokyo
For a first trip, I usually think spring is best when the blossoms themselves are a big part of why you are coming.
If they are not, I would usually choose fall instead.
Summer
Summer in Japan is rough.
It is hot, humid, and tiring in a way a lot of travelers underestimate before they get here. If you are coming from a cooler country and planning to do long days outside, summer can wear you down fast.
That said, summer also has a mood that no other season really replaces.
If you want fireworks, matsuri, beach trips, mountain escapes, baseball games, and that classic Japan summer atmosphere, then it can still be a great season to visit. I just would not recommend it as the easiest season for a first-time trip unless you specifically want what summer does best.
This is still my favorite season in Japan and the one I recommend most often.
The weather is usually better, the humidity is gone, the fall colors are incredible, and everyday sightseeing just feels easier than it does in summer.
Fall also tends to be a little less chaotic than cherry blossom season while still giving you that strong seasonal feeling people often want from a Japan trip.
If someone asked me for the safest all-around recommendation for a first trip, this would be it.
The trees turn stunning each fall
Winter
Winter is underrated.
It is not the season I would recommend first to everyone, but it can be a really good choice if you care more about lower crowds, seasonal food, winter scenery, hot springs, or skiing than about flowers and mild weather.
Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka can still work well in winter. The tradeoff is that the landscapes are less lush, some days feel a bit stark, and you are obviously not getting the big spring or fall postcard effect.
If your trip includes onsen towns, snowy scenery, or winter illuminations, winter can actually be a much stronger choice than people assume.
There is no need to be dramatic about this. Even the periods I like least can still work.
But if you want the easiest answer, these are the times I would usually avoid first.
Rainy Season
Rainy season is not catastrophic, but I do think it is one of the flattest times to travel in Japan.
You can still have a good trip. The problem is that the weather makes planning harder, the mood of the trip can feel duller, and you lose some of the magic that makes Japan especially enjoyable in spring or fall.
If you have flexibility, I would usually pick another period.
Golden Week
Golden Week is one of the busiest domestic travel periods in Japan.
That means crowds, higher prices, limited availability, and a lot more friction if you are moving around the country.
If this is your only chance to visit, then fine. Just book early and expect things to feel busier than usual.
If you can choose another week, I would.
Obon
Obon creates a similar problem.
This is another major domestic travel period, so trains, hotels, and tourist areas can get crowded fast. It is not impossible to travel then, but it is not a period I would choose for a first trip if I had other options.
New Year
New Year catches a lot of visitors off guard.
This is one of the few times of year when Japan can actually feel inconvenient for tourists. Some restaurants close, many businesses shut down temporarily, and the rhythm of the trip changes more than people expect.
If you want to experience Japan during the holiday itself, that is one thing. But if you are just picking random dates around late December and early January, I would think twice.
Good luck.
The Best Months to Visit Japan
If I had to narrow it down even further, these are the months I would usually look at first.
October
October is one of the easiest months for a Japan trip.
The weather is usually more comfortable, the worst summer heat is gone, and you can still travel widely without dealing with peak winter conditions.
November
November is probably the strongest month overall for a lot of travelers.
You get fall colors, cooler weather, and a very satisfying balance between seasonal beauty and practical comfort.
If I had to choose just one month for a first-time trip, this would be one of the strongest contenders.
Early December
Early December can be a great sweet spot.
You still get some autumn color in parts of the country, but the peak late-autumn rush starts to fade. It is one of those periods that often feels easier than the more famous postcard seasons.
Late March to Early April
This is the most famous answer for a reason.
If your trip is built around cherry blossoms, this is the period people dream about. Just expect crowds, higher prices, and a little less flexibility.
Month-by-Month Breakdown
January
Cold, quiet, and often underrated. Good for winter travel, hot springs, and lower crowds after the New Year period ends.
February
Still cold, but often a solid choice if you want winter scenery or plum blossoms and do not mind cooler weather.
March
A transition month. Early March can still feel wintry. Late March starts to become cherry blossom season in some places.
April
Beautiful, famous, and busy. Great for spring scenery, but not a low-stress month.
May
Excellent after Golden Week. Before or during Golden Week, I would be much more cautious.
June
Usually my least favorite month for a first-time trip because of rainy season.
July
Good for festivals, not good for comfort.
August
Similar to July, but often even more exhausting because of the heat.
September
A mixed month. Slightly calmer than peak summer in some ways, but still hot, humid, and sometimes affected by typhoons.
October
One of the safest and easiest months overall.
November
One of the very best months to visit Japan.
December
Early December can be excellent. Late December becomes more complicated because of the New Year period.
So When Would I Actually Visit Japan?
If I were advising most first-time visitors, I would usually say October, November, or early December.
If you care most about cherry blossoms, then aim for late March to early April and accept the tradeoff.
If your dream is festivals and summer atmosphere, then summer can still make sense. I just would not describe it as easy.
And if you want the periods I would avoid first, they are usually rainy season, Golden Week, Obon, and New Year.
To compare traveling to Japan to video games, if the main quest is culture and sightseeing, then food is the biggest side quest. There are tons of must-eat foods in Tokyo, Kyoto, and all over Japan. A complete list would be never-ending (you’d be counting hundreds of items, maybe thousands with the regional specialties).
So I simplified this and prepared this ultimate checklist of must-try foods in Japan. They are the most popular dishes, that you have to try before leaving Japan if you’re serious about food.
This checklist contains 25 items. With 2 meals a day, that would take you a total of 13 days to complete. That’s perfect for a two-week trip. You don’t have to complete everything in one trip though – that’s a good excuse to return to Japan in the future.
I’ve also included restaurant recommendation, and the Japanese words for each item. Copy-paste the Japanese word (the English word should work just fine too though) in Google Maps to see restaurants near you serving this type of food when you’re in Japan.
Not introducing sushi. You’ve already eaten sushi back home, but trust me, they’re completely difference in Japan.You can find them at all prices in Japan, from cheap conveyor belts (“回転寿司” (kaiten sushi) in Japanese) to high-end restaurants. In any case, they’re a delicious must-eat. One caveat though: they will never taste the same again back home.
Affordable restaurant recommendation: go for a conveyor belt sushi like Sushiro. They have multiple restaurants throughout Japan, so type it in Google Maps (either ‘Sushiro’ or the Japanese writing ‘スシロー’) to see the ones near you.
High-end: you have several very good but expensive sushi restaurants. Personally I went to renowned Jiro Sushi, and although I respect the skills, I wouldn’t recommend going if you don’t have the budget for it, or are not a complete foodie. You can find amazing sushis for much cheaper and the difference in taste is not that big.
Ramen (ラーメン)
There are so many different kinds of ramen that there could have been multiple entries on this list. I did add some to the “For the Fanatics” list though. Anyway, lots of variations but guess what? They’re all delicious.
Affordable: you can go to an easy-to-find chain like Ichiran Ramen (again, type ‘Ichiran’ or ‘一蘭’ in Google Maps). Or any ramen shop. Chances are there’s at least one located around the corner of your street.
Michelin star ramen: sorry to disappoint, but the three Tokyo ramen restaurants that had a Michelin star all lost it in 2024. Now they’re still excellent, so you can still visit. Otherwise, Japanese people use ramendb to rate ramen restaurants. If you’re a ramen fan and are not afraid of navigating a Japanese website, check it out. Note that the higher the rating, the longer the line at the entrance will be. Expect two to three hours wait for the best ones.
Tempura (天ぷら)
I love tempura. They make anything delicious. Shrimp, fish, shiitake mushroom, pumpkin, bell pepper, eggplant, shoes… Well maybe I got carried away with this last one, but you see what I mean.
Restaurant recommendation: there are so many affordable tempura places it’s impossible to count. To give one recommendation, I can mention Tenoto located in Nincyocho, where I lived for 5 years.
Yakiniku (焼肉)
Deliciouuuuus. Yakiniku is meat you cook yourself on a grill in front of you. It’s great and goes well with friends and beers. Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and smelly.
This one is hard to find outside Japan. In some places you will make it yourself, in some others the staff will prepare for you. It’s made of dashi-flavored batter, shredded cabbage, tempura flakes, and spring onions. And it’s… delicious.
Ok, I’ll stop with the “delicious” repetition joke before you click away. Udon are thick noodles that come in a variety of dishes. The simplest one and what you’ll probably try is similar to ramen: udon comes in a broth with various toppings.
Restaurant recommendation:Udon Buzjenbo in Nakameguro
Soba (そば)
You’ll find soba places everywhere – as almost this whole list here actually. You can eat them hot or cold usually, so that’s an excuse to go two times.
Restaurant recommendation:Kanda Matsuya near Akihabara
Tonkatsu (とんかつ)
Japanese cuisine fries things. A lot. Tonkatsu is one of the many examples. But its simplicity made it rise to the top of the easiest food to find. Bento in supermarkets, and most restaurants will have tonkatsu. It’s deep-fried pork with tonkatsu sauce and (often too much as you’ll find out) thinly sliced cabbage.
Restaurant recommendation:Tonkatsu Hasegawa in Ryogoku (the sumo district)
Kaiseki (懐石料理)
Not really a dish in itself, but more of a style. Kaiseki is a type of Japanese fine dining. It consists of many small dishes that all together will make up the whole meal. Basically, a Japanese multi-course meal. Kaiseki is the most expensive item on this list.
Restaurant recommendation: I’m not really familiar with kaiseki restaurants, so I’ll just share this list of the best Kaiseki in Tokyo by TimeOut.
If you’re feeling on treating yourself though, check out Wabunka’s experiences that include private kaiseki meals in authentic restaurants for the ultimate experience (I keep recommending Wabunka on this blog, because they offer the most authentic and non-touristy experiences out there, including food experiences. And all experiences are private – nobody else will join you).
Yakitori (焼き鳥)
Yakitoriiii. It’s my favorite on this list. Yakitori is basically skewered chicken. There are many yakitori restaurants, and it goes perfectly with friends and beers. You can also get some as street food.
Restaurant recommendation:Yakitori Omino near Tokyo Skytree (although this one needs advance reservation). You can aso get yakitori as street food if you want to try it for a snack instead. As finding shops selling those, you’ll smell the grilled meat from miles away, no worries.
Shabu-shabu (しゃぶしゃぶ)
I’ve always found this name funny. For those who played Zelda OOT, it reminds me of Lord Jabu-Jabu. Well, both come from Japanese onomatopoeias (they don’t mean the same thing though). Shabu-Shabu is a hotpot where you boil thin slices of meat and vegetables. You usually gradually put the ingredients in the pot yourself, so you eat while cooking.
It’s basically scrambled eggs over rice, often coming with ketchup topping or demi-glace sauce. Simple and easy, but surprisingly so good. You might think something that basic shouldn’t even be on this must-eat foods in Japan list – but it’s a very common dish here.
I don’t think I need to explain this one. Curry is a very popular dish in Japan (those who’ve played the latest Pokemon entries know). There are a lot of curry restaurants and chains in Japan, so you’ll have a huge choice.
Restaurant recommendation: personally I love CoCo Curry House. It’s a chain with prices you can expect from chains (pretty cheap), and it’s everywhere. Just type CoCo Curry House or CoCo Ichibanya in Google Maps and you’ll probably find one less than 10 minutes walk from where you are right now.
Oyakodon (親子丼)
I love oyakodon. The name will make you feel guilty though, as it literally means “parents and child rice bowl”. Why is it sad you’ll ask. Because Oyakodon is chicken and egg over rice. Chicken and egg. Parents and child. See? You monster.
Yakisoba is stir-fried noodles with cabbages, carrots, and pork with yakisoba sauce. They’re very popular as street food in summer festivals. So if you go to one, make sure to grab a portion of yakisoba at one of the food stands.
Restaurant recommendation:Teppan Yakisoba Sakaba Shibuyaki in Shibuya. But as mentioned above, if you’re here in summer you can just grab them at a festival.
Sukiyaki (すき焼き)
You might have noticed a lot of Japanese food names in this list containing “yaki” by now. It’s because “焼き” – yaki – means grilled. Sukiyaki is grill… Eh no. It’s a hotpot. It’s similar to Shabu-Shabu mentioned above, but uses slightly thicker slices of beef, different flavor, and some other ingredients. You also usually dip your meat in raw egg before eating it. Sukiyaki is often eaten in winter, but you can find it in summer too.
Takoyaki is a staple of Japanese street food. They’re grilled balls made of wheat flour-based batter and filled with minced octopus. They’re topped with shaved bonito and seaweed flakes, mayonnaise, and takoyaki sauce. Takoyaki is a symbol of Osaka as they originated from there, so if you go to this city make sure to save some space in your stomach for these little balls.
Restaurant recommendation: not really a dish but more of a snack, I’d recommend getting them at a street food stall or shop. If you don’t find any, you can always get some in most izakaya (Japanese-style restaurants), or in supermarkets and konbini.
Gyoza (餃子)
Gyoza might be from China, but they’re super popular in Japan. And there are a lot of gyoza restaurants you can choose from. Definitely worth being on your must-eat foods list while in Japan.
You probably know onigiri, so I’ll skip the detailed description. These rice balls can be found in almost all konbini and supermarkets, and are a great snack when you get the munchies mid-afternoon after walking 20km visiting the city. Onigiri fillings comes in endless variety, so if you’re feeling adventurous try different ones and which one you like best!
Restaurant recommendation: although onigiri are often bought in konbini and consumed as a snack, you can find onigiri restaurants, like Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku in Asakusa.
Katsudon (カツ丼)
Katsudon is very similar tonkatsu. The difference is, you add egg and a few vegetables. It’s easy to make and good. You’ll find it in a lot of restaurants, and as bento in supermarkets.
Karaage is fried chicken, and it is a Japanese staple. They’re also everywhere, from supermarkets to more pricey restaurants. What makes a good or bad Karaage is often the coating, called koromo (衣) in Japanese. Not really a meal itself, but you cannot leave Japan ticking this one off your must-eat foods list.
Restaurant recommendation:Asakusa Chicken (more of a street food shop than a restaurant)
Sashimi (刺身)
Kind of like sushi but very different at the same time. It’s raw fish. You eat it with soy sauce and wasabi, like sushi. But the rice is in a separate bowl usually. And it’s often part of a “teishoku”, a Japanese set meal coming with different small dishes.
Restaurant recommendation:Shibusan Uokin in Shibuya. Or almost all restaurants serving seafood will serve sashimi as well.
Oden (おでん)
This is a classic Japanese winter dish. For those who knows French dishes, it’s always made me think of Pot-au-Feu. Not the same ingredients (oden uses daikon, boiled eggs, konjac, fish, and others) but I find some similar flavors, and ingredients are also boiled in a broth.
You might know this as the ‘sumo food’. It’s a hot pot that Sumo wrestlers eat for gaining weight. You’ll actually find a lot of Chanko Nabe restaurants in Ryogoku, the sumo area of Tokyo. As Sukiyaki and Shabu-shabu, it’s part of the Nabe (鍋) type of dishes. Nabe literally meaning “pot”.
Restaurant recommendation:Chanko Tomoegata in Ryogoku. You can find Chanko restaurants all over Tokyo, but it’s more fun eating this dish in the Sumo district Ryogoku.
Unagi (うなぎ)
Unagi means eel, and this dish is grilled eel over rice. Simple as that. It is very popular in Japan, especially during summer (don’t ask me why though, as the dish is served hot) and usually served in a square bento box. It’s slightly more expensive than most of the items in this checklist, and thus is often considered a treat by Japanese people.
I have been living in Tokyo since 2019 and working in the Japan travel industry for just as long, and this is still one of the questions I get asked most often.
Where should I stay in Tokyo?
The short answer is that there is no single perfect area for everyone.
But there is one rule I would put above the rest: stay somewhere central, well connected, and close to a major station.
That will shape the trip much more than whether the area is trendy, traditional, or all over social media.
If you want the shortest possible version of my advice, it is this:
best for pure convenience and access: Shinjuku
best if you want a lively area but something a bit more polished: Shibuya
best for a cleaner, calmer, more practical base: Tokyo Station / Ginza side
good practical alternatives: Ueno and Ikebukuro
area I would stop overrecommending: Asakusa
If you are staying in Tokyo for the first time, I would focus less on finding the one famous neighborhood everyone mentions and more on finding a base that makes the city easier.
If You Want the Short Version
Area
Best for
My take
Shinjuku
first-time visitors, nightlife, day trips, pure access
still one of the strongest bases in Tokyo, but no longer my automatic answer for everyone
Shibuya
people who want energy, shopping, and a better-looking base
good access, shopping, north / west side connections
underrated by many first-time visitors
Asakusa
people who care most about traditional atmosphere
overrecommended in my opinion
How to Choose a Good Base in Tokyo
Tokyo is not a city where the most charming neighborhood is automatically the best place to stay.
It is a city where access changes everything.
A hotel that looks slightly cheaper or slightly prettier on the map can become annoying very fast if it leaves you doing long train rides, awkward transfers, or late-night returns through the wrong part of the network.
When I first visited Tokyo in 2017, I made exactly that mistake. I stayed outside the center in Kosuge, around 15 minutes from Ueno, because the Airbnb looked like a good deal. The trip itself was great, but the accommodation was one of the main complaints. Getting back took too long, and the base never felt convenient.
That is why my rule in Tokyo is simple:
stay somewhere central
stay near a major station
if possible, stay near a station with several useful lines
and do not go too far out just to save a little money
The Yamanote Rule
The JR Yamanote Line is not the only line that matters in Tokyo, but it is still a useful way to think about location.
If you stay on or near the Yamanote loop, especially close to a bigger station, you are usually in a good position to move around the city.
That does not mean every Yamanote station is equally good.
Shinjuku is still one of the strongest places to stay in Tokyo.
If your priority is pure convenience, it is hard to beat.
You have excellent train access, easy day-trip potential, a huge amount of food and nightlife, and enough going on around you that the area can feel exciting even when you are not trying very hard.
One of Shinjuku’s iconic street
The reason I would not call it the single best answer anymore is that Shinjuku has become too touristy and too hectic for some travelers.
If you like energy, nightlife, late trains, and having everything around you, that may not bother you at all.
If you are traveling with young kids, want calmer evenings, or just do not enjoy spending every night in one of the busiest parts of the city, then Shinjuku may not be your best fit.
Why I Still Rate It Highly
Shinjuku still wins on one thing more than almost anywhere else: access.
It gives you excellent connections across Tokyo and also makes western Tokyo and day trips easier than a lot of other bases do.
One of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s observatories.
Which Part of Shinjuku I Would Choose
If I were staying in Shinjuku myself, I would lean more toward West Shinjuku or South Shinjuku.
They usually feel calmer than the loudest Kabukicho-adjacent parts while still keeping the convenience that makes Shinjuku appealing in the first place.
Who Shinjuku Is Best For
first-time visitors who want the easiest logistics
people who like nightlife and energy
travelers planning day trips west of Tokyo
people who do not mind crowds
Who Should Be More Careful
families with young kids
travelers who want a quieter base
people who think they hate tourist-heavy areas
Shibuya
If you had asked me a few years ago, I probably would still have put Shinjuku more clearly ahead.
Now, I think Shibuya makes at least as much sense for a lot of travelers.
It is lively, central, easy to move around from, and surrounded by neighborhoods that many visitors actually enjoy more once they are here: Harajuku, Omotesando, Yoyogi, Daikanyama, Ebisu.
It also tends to feel a bit more polished than Shinjuku, even if it is still very busy.
Why I Like It More Than Before
Shibuya gives you a strong mix of:
good transport
lots of restaurants and shopping
walkable access to interesting nearby areas
a base that still feels fun without being quite as chaotic as Shinjuku
If your trip is more about Tokyo itself than about constant day trips, this is one of the best places to stay.
Tokyo Station / Ginza Side
This is the recommendation I would often make to travelers who want something easier, cleaner, and a bit less noisy.
It is not the most atmospheric part of Tokyo.
But it is practical.
And in Tokyo, practical goes a long way.
If you are doing day trips, taking the shinkansen, traveling as a family, or just want a base that feels more straightforward at the end of the day, this side of the city makes a lot of sense.
Best For
families
people doing day trips or onward train travel
travelers who prefer cleaner, calmer surroundings
people who do not care about nightlife as much
Tradeoff
The downside is simple: it can feel a bit too business-like or too polished depending on the exact area.
So if you want character first and convenience second, it may not be your favorite base.
Ueno and Ikebukuro
I would treat these as practical alternatives rather than romantic favorites.
Tokyo needs practical alternatives.
Ueno
Ueno is useful if you want decent transport, access to museums and the northeast side of the city, and a base that can sometimes be a little better value than the most obvious central picks.
It is busy and a bit messy in places, but it works.
Ikebukuro
Ikebukuro is another very functional choice that some first-time travelers overlook.
It has major-station convenience, lots of shopping and food, and better access than people sometimes assume if they have only been told to choose between Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Asakusa.
If you want convenience without defaulting to the most famous answer, Ikebukuro is worth considering.
Areas I Would Be More Careful About
Asakusa
Asakusa is not a terrible place to stay.
I just think it gets overrecommended.
Yes, it gives you that more traditional Tokyo feeling. Yes, Senso-ji is right there. Yes, some people love waking up in that part of the city.
But it is also heavily touristy, crowded during the day, and less well positioned for the rest of Tokyo than many guides make it sound.
The famous Senso-ji temple in Asakusa. You will almost certainly visit it during your stay in Tokyo.
It is close to a few useful areas, and if your whole goal is to stay somewhere that feels more old Tokyo, then I understand the appeal.
I just would not recommend it as a default answer anymore.
You visit Tokyo Skytree once.
You visit Senso-ji once or twice.
The rest of the time, the real issue is how easy the city feels from your base.
Staying Too Far Out
This is a common mistake, that I already made myself.
I would be much more cautious about staying far outside the center just to save a little money than about choosing the wrong major neighborhood inside central Tokyo.
A slightly cheaper room can become expensive in a different way if it costs you time, energy, and convenience every single day.
So Where Would I Actually Stay?
If I were advising most first-time visitors now, I would usually say this:
choose Shinjuku if your priority is pure convenience and you do not mind crowds
choose Shibuya if you want a more stylish all-around base with strong access
choose Tokyo Station / Ginza side if you want something cleaner, calmer, or more family-friendly
choose Ueno or Ikebukuro if you want practical alternatives that still make sense
And I would stop treating Asakusa as one of the top general recommendations.
Tokyo is too big for a lazy hotel choice.
But it is also not a city where you need to overcomplicate things.
Pick a strong base near a major station, and the whole trip gets easier.
If you are looking for the best chopstick-making workshop in Tokyo, this is probably it.
It is also clearly not the right pick for everyone.
Mogami Kogei costs much more than the simpler chopstick classes around Tokyo. The question is whether you want a more private, more personal experience in a real craftsman’s workshop, or if a shorter and cheaper class would suit you just fine.
Some links on YavaJapan are affiliate links. If you book or buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps support the site, and I only link to places, stays, and experiences I genuinely think are worth recommending.
Hand-made chopsticks at Mogami Kogei workshop
Quick Verdict
Yes, I think Mogami Kogei is worth it if you want the best version of this kind of activity in Tokyo.
I would not recommend it to every traveler. If you just want a fun and affordable class where you make a pair of chopsticks and move on with your day, there are cheaper options that make more sense.
But if you want something private, more personal, and much less touristy, this is the one I would look at first.
This is a private chopstick-making experience in Kuramae with Mogami-san, a traditional woodworker who works in the Edo sashimono world.
I was invited by Wabunka, which I recommend often on YavaJapan for this kind of experience. Wabunka focuses on private cultural experiences and stays in Japan for international travelers, usually built around respected hosts, meaningful settings, and a much more personal format than the usual tourist class. Here, that means private time in Mogami-san’s real workshop, plus interpreter support when it helps the conversation go deeper.
You are not just booking a slot in a generic class. You are booking time in a real workshop, with a real craftsman, in a format that feels much more personal than the usual tourist-facing version of this kind of activity.
Why I Joined This Experience
I have been living in Japan since 2019 and working around Japan travel for just as long, so I have seen a lot of workshops and activities that sound great online and feel forgettable in real life.
This one did not have that problem.
What interested me was not just the chopsticks. It was the chance to spend time in a proper workshop, talk with Mogami-san, and see whether the premium angle actually translated into a better experience on the ground.
It did.
The Short Version of How It Felt
The best way I can describe it is this: it felt like visiting someone’s working world, not dropping into a tourist product.
That difference is exactly why I would pay more for something like this.
Here is a short video I made about this experience:
I think i just found the ultimate souvenir to bring back from Japan😳 Mogami-san was such a kind soul, honestly the experience is as much talking and learning from him as it is about making chopsticks 😌 Mogami-san’s English is not bad but limited so we had an (amazing) guide with us translating and helping us discuss with the master ✌️ Honestly it was the best workshop I’ve done so far in Japan, really impressed👌 If you want to do it when you’re in Tokyo you need to book ahead inline, the website name is Wabunka #japantravel#tokyotravel#handwork#woodworking#chopsticks#japanthingstodo
My group met our guide first, then headed into Mogami-san’s workshop in Kuramae.
The space immediately felt right. Small, lived-in, full of tools, full of wood, and clearly not designed from scratch to look polished for visitors.
Mogami-san showed us the storefront and some of his creations before taking us further in. He works with Edo sashimono, a traditional Japanese woodworking technique built around joinery rather than nails, and even if the chopsticks themselves are simpler than a full sashimono piece, that background gives the workshop much more character.
This lamp was made using Edo Sashimono technique
One of the reasons the visit stayed with me is that it never felt rushed. It felt like we were being welcomed into a real place of work.
Making the Chopsticks
Before we started, Mogami-san offered traditional workwear, which of course I accepted immediately because I looked far more competent in it than I actually was.
We all got to wear a traditional workwear outfit
The workshop itself is beginner-friendly, but it is not so simple that your hands can go on autopilot.
You choose your wood first, then shape the chopsticks by cutting down the corners step by step, then sand them smooth, then finish them.
Mogami-san and the interpreter guided us through it clearly, which was lucky for me because I was nowhere near as naturally gifted as I had imagined in my head.
I really thought I would breeze through it.
Absolutely not.
At several points, I managed to make mistakes that would have turned my chopsticks into something much less elegant if Mogami-san had not stepped in and quietly rescued the situation.
So if you are reading this and worrying that you are too clumsy for it, do not.
You will be fine.
Visual explanations of the chopstick-making process
The Best Part Was Not Just the Craft
The biggest difference between this and a cheaper class is not that the chopsticks magically become ten times better.
It is that the whole thing feels more human.
While we worked, we were able to talk with Mogami-san about his craft, his family, his workshop, and the industry itself. That part is much harder to get in a bigger, more standardized class.
The interpreter helps for a very simple reason: it lets the exchange breathe. You are not stuck smiling politely through a language wall. You can actually ask things, follow up, and learn more.
The Finishing Touch
The last stage was the lacquer, which is where everything suddenly looked much more impressive than it had a few minutes earlier.
Mogami-san applying lacquer to his chopsticks
By the end, I was holding a pair of chopsticks that looked far better than they had any right to given my own contribution to the process.
That is still one of my favorite things about the experience. It is hands-on, but you are not left alone to ruin the final result.
What Makes Mogami Kogei Different
Here is the real value proposition as I see it:
Private format
Interpreter support
A real workshop setting
A host who genuinely feels worth meeting
A more personal overall experience
It is a different kind of experience from the quick, inexpensive classes around Tokyo. If you mainly want a fun activity and a handmade souvenir, those can work perfectly well. If you want the strongest premium version of this idea in Tokyo, this is the one I would recommend first.
Who This Is For
I would recommend this most to:
travelers who want a special craft experience, not just a quick activity
couples or small groups who value privacy
people who care about traditional craftsmanship
travelers doing a milestone trip, honeymoon, or one big splurge experience
families with older kids or teenagers who enjoy hands-on activities
Who Should Skip It
I would skip this if:
you are mainly trying to keep costs down
you just want a quick class and do not care much who is teaching it
you would rather do several cheaper activities than spend more on one
you are already very experienced in woodworking and mainly want technical challenge
If you are already highly skilled with your hands, you may not find the chopstick-making itself difficult enough to be the main attraction. In that case, the value is much more about the workshop visit and the human side of the experience.
Is It Worth the Price?
For me, yes.
Not because chopsticks are inherently worth a premium price. They are not.
It is worth it because this is one of those rare cases where spending more changes the feel of the experience in a real way.
You are paying for:
a private setup
better host access
interpretation
a stronger sense of place
an experience that feels very different from a standard class
If budget is not your main concern and you want the best overall chopstick-making experience in Tokyo, I think the price makes sense.
